Folk Fuzz 3.5% build thread

[jfromel]

On the circuitboard and diagram there is what seems an extra soldering pad for T1 and T2 right on the outline of the transistor. These remain unused? Or did I miss something?

They remain unused, they are there to accomidate a varity of trannies.

[polifemo]

I had to stop my attemp to build the Fuzz in one go as I don´t know where to solder the middle leg of T1 and T2 as there are 4 holes for the 3 legs...

I also was stupid enough not to observe the polarity of the green led´s - they are both turned the same direction - and now I can´t desolder one of them in order to turn it around...
I´m an idiot... (And now I have to bother Björn ONCE AGAIN )

Also there´s no info on the pots.
Is this correct:
- Vol = A100K
- Tone = B50k
- Fuzz = C1M

This is my third pedal build and I was hoping to get it right from the beginning this time, but no...

Why don´t I just stick to playing the guitar as THAT is something that I do really well

[Strat-o-lux]

Disclaimer: I'm new to printed circuitboard assembly and finding it challenging myself, so don't take my answers to be authoritative. You may want to wait for others to respond. But for what it's worth I'll offer a few thoughts...

I had to stop my attemp to build the Fuzz in one go as I don´t know where to solder the middle leg of T1 and T2 as there are 4 holes for the 3 legs...

I don't think it matters as both the possible "middle holes" appear to be on the same trace; orientation of the outside legs is critical. (again, might want to await confirmation of my assessment).

I also was stupid enough not to observe the polarity of the green led´s - they are both turned the same direction - and now I can´t desolder one of them in order to turn it around...

Desoldering and removal is tough - no matter how much solder you remove, enough remains that usually you still need to heat the leads while pulling the component out. It's difficult in such close quarters and with only 2 hands but not impossible. Have to be careful not to cook the hell out of the LED.

Also there´s no info on the pots.
Is this correct:
- Vol = A100K
- Tone = B50k
- Fuzz = C1M

I believe that's correct. Pots values are marked on the fiberboard by their terminals. Correct value for VR1, VR2, VR3 is marked on the circuitboard and on the diagram right by where they connect. That will determine placement.


I thought this would be, for me, an easy project. It's been a bit challenging. Working on a tiny printed circuitboard is rather different from repairing old tube amps (my prior experience). But, it's been fun so far and I can't wait to actually hear the thing. Little f**k-ups along the way are just part of the experience.

[Strat-o-lux]

Code: Select all

aussy wrote:
Dangit! While attempting to screw up the enclosure, three of the screws broke in their respective holes. Guess I'll have to buy an extractor bit now


Ok these are self threading enclosures, the first time you screw the back on it will be tight and you should use some 3 in 1 oil to help lube the fit. I have never broken a screw off so you may have gotten some extra weak screws or an extra strong enclosure.


The screws that came with my kit are not of the self-tapping type. I think it's worth a trip to the hardware store to purchase a self-tapping 6-32 screw ($0.19) to tap the holes with. Get one a bit longer than the actual screw so you can clear threads far enough (but don't bottom it out).

Some tapping fluid (light oil will do) helps. Clean the crud out with a pipe cleaner.

[jfromel]

Code: Select all

aussy wrote:
Dangit! While attempting to screw up the enclosure, three of the screws broke in their respective holes. Guess I'll have to buy an extractor bit now


Ok these are self threading enclosures, the first time you screw the back on it will be tight and you should use some 3 in 1 oil to help lube the fit. I have never broken a screw off so you may have gotten some extra weak screws or an extra strong enclosure.


The screws that came with my kit are not of the self-tapping type. I think it's worth a trip to the hardware store to purchase a self-tapping 6-32 screw ($0.19) to tap the holes with. Get one a bit longer than the actual screw so you can clear threads far enough (but don't bottom it out).

Some tapping fluid (light oil will do) helps. Clean the crud out with a pipe cleaner.

The screws don't look like typical self tapping screws, they look normal but will tap the aluminium just fine with a dab of 3-in-1 oil.

[Strat-o-lux]

The screws don't look like typical self tapping screws, they look normal but will tap the aluminium just fine with a dab of 3-in-1 oil.

No wish to be argumentative. I didn't like the amount of force necessary to turn them in - thought I'd offer a suggestion for anyone else who was feeling wimpy about it.

Anyway, John, no criticism intended. You've done a fantastic job with these Folk Fuzz kits. Really outstanding. And the support you've provided. Cheers!

[polifemo]

Desoldering and removal is tough - no matter how much solder you remove, enough remains that usually you still need to heat the leads while pulling the component out. It's difficult in such close quarters and with only 2 hands but not impossible. Have to be careful not to cook the hell out of the LED.

I´ve done some desoldering on circuitbords before without any problems, but for some reason I just can´t succceed doing it this time.

No fuzz for me it seems... But it is my own fault.

[jfromel]

Desoldering and removal is tough - no matter how much solder you remove, enough remains that usually you still need to heat the leads while pulling the component out. It's difficult in such close quarters and with only 2 hands but not impossible. Have to be careful not to cook the hell out of the LED.

I´ve done some desoldering on circuitbords before without any problems, but for some reason I just can´t succceed doing it this time.

No fuzz for me it seems... But it is my own fault.

Part of the difficulty is that these boards are double sided with plated through holes, not like the cheap stuff that you get with a Boss or Ibanez pedal. If anyone needs new parts or even a new board, let me know and I can get you replacements for a couple $$.

[aussy]

Played with the FF more today, sounded horrible. Found out why though! I have T2 facing the wrong direction (C in E, E in C), and I also have the B of T1 soldered to the wrong pad (should be in the upper middle, correct?) I'm waiting on some desoldering braid to come from small bear so I can get the transistors out, since my solder sucker is too clunky for this job. Looking forward to hearing a true FF.

[polifemo]

Desoldering and removal is tough - no matter how much solder you remove, enough remains that usually you still need to heat the leads while pulling the component out. It's difficult in such close quarters and with only 2 hands but not impossible. Have to be careful not to cook the hell out of the LED.

I´ve done some desoldering on circuitbords before without any problems, but for some reason I just can´t succceed doing it this time.

No fuzz for me it seems... But it is my own fault.

Part of the difficulty is that these boards are double sided with plated through holes, not like the cheap stuff that you get with a Boss or Ibanez pedal. If anyone needs new parts or even a new board, let me know and I can get you replacements for a couple $$.

Thanks for your offer to help!
I´m just about to give it another go, and if I´m lucky Björn (the nicest guy on in this solar system) might help me out.

We´ll see.

Ps. Poor you, all of us clumsy fools, so eager to finish our Folk Fuzzes, that we turn everything upside down/inside out/the wrong way/in the wrong place etc

I remember when I built an amp from a kit a couple of years ago and about 90% of the posts on that forum had the title "Amp not working" Ds