Mechanics of the Folk Fuzz
Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 12:25 pmHi,
On Folk Fuzz hardware and mechanics:
It's possible to build this into an MXR sized box, but if you'd like to employ the switching options it is easier to use a twice as wide box.
Remember to plan for battery placement inside the box if you like to be able to use battery.
The larger box will make an easier build.
Securing potentiometers and jacks with locking washers helps keeping the unit sturdy.
A general tip is to plan placement of knobs and optional switches, jacks and LED before drilling the box.
You can use a batteryoperated drill, that is what I do unless I drill many boxes.
The main advantage of battery operated drilling is that if the drill bit gets stuck, the drill stops imediately-a wallpowered drill will continue to rotate for about a minute, something that can be dangerous and you will need to be prepared for this.
There are pure aluminium boxes and those are easily drilled, but there's still a risk at drillbit getting stuck.
I'd like to have all parts prepared before building and would mark all holes on the box and drill and paint and while that dries I'd make the pcb.
Once you have built the board it is helpful to build the mechanics into the box so unit can be fully tested.
If something doesn't work or you run into trouble post about it and we can see how it can be solved.
I have seen a site that had all kinds of knobs but I don't remember the location perhaps somebody does?
There are a number of mechanical parts needed and here goes
1x Stereo Telejack
1x Mono Telejack
1x1M linear or preferably reverselog pot
1x100K linear pot
1x50K logarithmic pot
1x3PDT footswitch ( blue Taiwan is just fine)
1x optional metal washer for the footswitch- personally I think that looks better but those will have to be bought seperately.
1x LED clip
1xBatterysnap- hardtype lasts longer
1x Box, the size of which depending on how many options you'd like to include
2x lockingwashers for the telejacks
3x lockingwashers for the potentiometers-some potentiometers come with a guiding pin and those can use an extra hole in the box and will then not need any locking washer
3x knobs
To wire the outboard parts I'd recommend using stranded wire with a core of at least five pieces and so the wire can flex.How to wire the outboard parts is also likely a topic in itself and that can be discussed in this thread and you can choose the most comfortable way. I'd like to make sure that wires aren't stretched anywhere and that there is no tension as that greatly reduces the risk of a wire breaking.
You will also need some way of securing the pcb inside the box. I use neoprane, which is the same kind of rubber as used in diver's suits, but there are many ways and only one that you'd mostly prefer and this could be a topic in itself as I am sure there will be some clever options here and this might also be discussed in this thread.
I'd also recommend finding a way to secure the battery wires and making sure the battery sits snugly in the box without rattling.
Lastly there are many sources for mechanical parts and those I use may not be available for you as those available to you might not be to me, but let's see where parts can be had and what they will cost.
In building a guitarpedal the most expensive parts are just the mechanics.
Anyway have fun
BJ
On Folk Fuzz hardware and mechanics:
It's possible to build this into an MXR sized box, but if you'd like to employ the switching options it is easier to use a twice as wide box.
Remember to plan for battery placement inside the box if you like to be able to use battery.
The larger box will make an easier build.
Securing potentiometers and jacks with locking washers helps keeping the unit sturdy.
A general tip is to plan placement of knobs and optional switches, jacks and LED before drilling the box.
You can use a batteryoperated drill, that is what I do unless I drill many boxes.
The main advantage of battery operated drilling is that if the drill bit gets stuck, the drill stops imediately-a wallpowered drill will continue to rotate for about a minute, something that can be dangerous and you will need to be prepared for this.
There are pure aluminium boxes and those are easily drilled, but there's still a risk at drillbit getting stuck.
I'd like to have all parts prepared before building and would mark all holes on the box and drill and paint and while that dries I'd make the pcb.
Once you have built the board it is helpful to build the mechanics into the box so unit can be fully tested.
If something doesn't work or you run into trouble post about it and we can see how it can be solved.
I have seen a site that had all kinds of knobs but I don't remember the location perhaps somebody does?
There are a number of mechanical parts needed and here goes
1x Stereo Telejack
1x Mono Telejack
1x1M linear or preferably reverselog pot
1x100K linear pot
1x50K logarithmic pot
1x3PDT footswitch ( blue Taiwan is just fine)
1x optional metal washer for the footswitch- personally I think that looks better but those will have to be bought seperately.
1x LED clip
1xBatterysnap- hardtype lasts longer
1x Box, the size of which depending on how many options you'd like to include
2x lockingwashers for the telejacks
3x lockingwashers for the potentiometers-some potentiometers come with a guiding pin and those can use an extra hole in the box and will then not need any locking washer
3x knobs
To wire the outboard parts I'd recommend using stranded wire with a core of at least five pieces and so the wire can flex.How to wire the outboard parts is also likely a topic in itself and that can be discussed in this thread and you can choose the most comfortable way. I'd like to make sure that wires aren't stretched anywhere and that there is no tension as that greatly reduces the risk of a wire breaking.
You will also need some way of securing the pcb inside the box. I use neoprane, which is the same kind of rubber as used in diver's suits, but there are many ways and only one that you'd mostly prefer and this could be a topic in itself as I am sure there will be some clever options here and this might also be discussed in this thread.
I'd also recommend finding a way to secure the battery wires and making sure the battery sits snugly in the box without rattling.
Lastly there are many sources for mechanical parts and those I use may not be available for you as those available to you might not be to me, but let's see where parts can be had and what they will cost.
In building a guitarpedal the most expensive parts are just the mechanics.
Anyway have fun
BJ
